It started as one of those days where I was standing in one of the worst downpours I can remember. I hadn’t even made it down to the beach and I had to take cover under the surf centre as my waterproof jacket was already soaked through.
I was busy drying my lens when I noticed a spay of water in the distance, the kind only a professional surfer makes. So instead of running back to the car as soon as the squall let up I ran down to the shoreline. Sure enough Alan Stokes was making the most of the huge lumps and crowd free walls of water showing up some crazy shapes.
As much as I don’t like standing face on to the ocean, sinking in the sand with the storm surge trying to suck me into the shipping lanes every few seconds, watching some big messy ramps with one of the best surfers I know makes every second worthwhile.
Saw some bluefin tuna boiling too!!!!
Hope you like?
